Restoran Noštromo
Split, Croatia
(near the fish market)
10 Kraj Svete Marije
21000 Split
Croatia
385-91-405-6666
Owner/Chef: Zlatko Marinović
Zlatko
Review copyright - Ginda Simpson
Sometimes a meal stands out for its taste, or for the atmosphere in which it was served, or for the conviviality of its chef. Our lunch at Noštromo, our first in Croatia, was this and so much more – for me it was a spiritual connection to a man and his profound passion for his country, for the Adriatic and the fruits of the sea, for the cultural and culinary traditions of Dalmatia, and for fine artistic expression. Zlatko Marinović is no ordinary chef. He brings to the table a history rich in experience that precedes that gained in the kitchen. His superior cuisine and the awards it has garnered, belie the fact that he has been a chef for so few years. He opened Noštromo a little less than a decade ago; its name a tribute to his father who spent a part of every afternoon of his life with the fishermen at Matejuška. With his young son in tow, Stipe taught Zlatko everything there was to learn about fish and their seasons, how to prepare the long lines and how to tie a hook. Most importantly Zlatko inherited his father’s respect for the land and the sea and a strong understanding that their gifts were to be revered and never wasted.
In his book, Zlatko presents a touching vignette of what this means. In his words, “In the city, below the rocks of Marjan my whole life elderly women in traditional folk costumes were going down our street to the church of St. Fran. With their right hand they would hold the wall, whilst with their left hand they would balance with a stick and continue with their slow walk. If they would come upon a dropped piece of bread on their pathways, they would pick it up, kiss it and put it away on some small wall or window will. A simple and old-fashioned respect for our daily bread.”
I had only to read these words to know that I would love this man and anything his hands prepared. The two dining rooms are intimate, seating up to forty people. The walls are covered in paintings by some of Croatia’s best artists and add to the charm of the restaurant’s interior. Just as the simple wooden tables are made elegant by lovely china and table linens, the seafood, direct from the fish stalls outside his doors, is made exquisite by Zlatko’s careful selection of ingredients and his sensitive, I would guess even reverent, handling. His knowledge and his passion become his signature creations and I would find it difficult to name which dish I enjoyed more. Octopus salad and icy cold carpaccio of fish on a bed of arugula drizzled with golden olive oil were brought to new heights with Zlatko’s expertise. And it seems right that the much prized, much protected date-shells were subject to his preparation, much to our gratification. The main entrée of grilled red mullet with scampi was no less than a work of art.
Exceptional food. A remarkable chef. A father’s pride.